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Great Britain 2003 |

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Below are photographs and brief descriptions of some of the places we
visited during our visit to England and Wales in July 2003. The
weather was remarkably good for more than two weeks: sunny skies
and warm temperatures, with daytime highs ranging from the
mid-to-upper 70's to the low-to-mid 80's (the locals were complaining
about a heat wave, and they described 60% humidity as "muggy;" compared
to a south Florida summer, however, conditions were still mild).
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Avebury |

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Avebury is located in
Wiltshire, west-southwest of London. The Avebury Stone Circle,
which was erected about 2500 B.C.E., surrounds the village of Avebury.
In the 18th century, local inhabitants smashed many of the stones,
believing the circle to have been a place of pagan sacrifice.
The 18th century Christians of Avebury had much in common with the
21st century Taliban who demolished ancient Buddhist statues in
Afghanistan, and the 16th century Spanish conquistadors who destroyed
Aztec temples in Tenochtitlan. Religious people often regard
competing religious beliefs as dangerously irrational, but they seldom
recognize that their own beliefs are equally so.
While it is undoubtedly too much to hope that people of different
religions would allow reason to guide their interactions with
one another (after all, religious thinking and rational thinking are
antithetical), it would be nice if people of different religions would
at least be tolerant and respectful of one another's art and
monuments, so that the rest of us could enjoy the products of human
ingenuity and creativity.
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Bath |

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The city of Bath is located
in southwestern England, just east of Bristol (not too far from the
Severn Estuary and the border with Wales). The open-air Great
Bath, which stands at the heart of the spa complex built by the Romans
in the 1st century, is fed by a natural hot spring that keeps the
water at a constant 115° F.
Various additional bathing chambers lead off from the sides of the
pool. The lead-lined bath itself, the steps leading into the
water, the column bases, and the paving stones all date from Roman
times (the column bases originally supported a barrel-vaulted roof).
Crowded with tourists in the summertime, it's still very impressive.
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Cambridge |

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In the background, on the
other side of the River Cam, is King's College, Cambridge, which was
founded by King Henry VI in 1441 (Cambridge University itself was
founded in 1284). Just visible on the near bank is one of the
many flat-bottomed open boats used by students and visitors for
"punting" on the river. The craft are propelled (leisurely) by
leaning on a long pole, and the skill is not as easily mastered as it
might sound; the punts capsize easily, and we saw several people take
unplanned dips in the river. Fortunately, neither the current
nor the abundant ducks are vicious or unmanageable.
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Castle Howard |

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Castle Howard is located in
Yorkshire, in north-central England, where our friend Ann lived at the
time.
This stately home, which is still owned and lived in by the Howard
family, was built in the early 18th century. The photos show the
front (north) and back (south) facades. Castle Howard was used
as the location for the Granada Television version of Evelyn Waugh's
novel Brideshead Revisited; originally shown in the United
States on PBS in 1982, it's still widely available on video and DVD
(and well worth seeing).
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The Goring Hotel,
London |

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This is a very charming hotel
in London
with an excellent location--a short walk from Buckingham Palace, and
just around the corner from Victoria Station. Our room
overlooked the private courtyard garden, a welcome oasis of
tranquility in the bustling city. One of the hotel's whimsical
trademarks is the near-ubiquitous presence of the resting sheep--they
can be found in most rooms and hallways. Family owned and
operated since 1910,
The Goring
Hotel features exemplary service and an outstanding restaurant. It's
not inexpensive (few things in London are), but we highly recommend
it.
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Hadrian's Wall |

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In 120 C.E., the Roman
Emperor Hadrian ordered work to begin on a 73-mile-long wall across
northern England, from the Solway Firth in the west to the mouth of
the River Tyne in the east. Hadrian's Wall was intended to mark
and defend the northern limits of the British province and the
northwest boundary of the Roman Empire. It was abandoned in 383
C.E. as the Roman Empire crumbled, but much of the wall remains.
These pictures were taken at Housesteads Fort, one of the
best-preserved of the thirteen permanent forts where Roman garrisons
were stationed.
Hadrian's Wall is one of many properties maintained by the
National Trust.
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Leeds Castle |

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Leeds Castle is located in
Maidstone, Kent, a little southeast of London. Listed in
Domesday Book, it has been, at times, a Norman stronghold, a royal
residence for six of England's medieval queens, and a palace of Henry
VII. It later passed into the hands of various private owners,
until finally being purchased by "a wealthy Anglo-American heiress,"
Lady Baillie, in 1926. Since her death, the castle has been
managed by the
Leeds Castle
Foundation, which maintains an elaborate and colorful website
about this beautiful and historic place.
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Stonehenge |

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Europe's most famous
prehistoric monument was built in several stages beginning about 5,000
years ago. Tourists are no longer allowed to walk among the
stones--a path circles the site, with the closest vantage point about
fifteen yards away. These photos don't convey the majesty of the
setting: Stonehenge lies near the top of a rise in the middle of
the Salisbury Plain, and the standing stones can be seen from miles
away in all directions. The largest standing stones, topped by
lintels, are sarsen stones; the smaller stones in the inner circle are
bluestones. Regardless of the ambient temperature, the
bluestones are always warmer to the touch than the sarsen stones
(there are sample of both types near the parking area that tourists
are allowed to feel). Stonehenge is one of many sites managed by
English
Heritage.
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Thornbury Castle |

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Located in South
Gloucestershire, Thornbury Castle was built in 1511. It was home
for several years to Princess Mary, who later became Queen Mary I;
King Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn slept there in 1535. Today
Thornbury Castle
is one of many historic buildings throughout Great Britain that has
been converted into a
hotel.
Our spacious, multi-sided room occupied the entire third floor of the
largest turret in the castle. If you visit, the castle grounds
can be difficult to find: after you pass the last of the signs
indicating the direction toward the castle in the village of
Thornbury, look for a small, nearly unmarked gate at the end of a
driveway on the edge of the church property.
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Tintern Abbey |

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Tintern Abbey is located on
the banks of the River Wye, on the border between Wales and England.
Founded in 1131 by Cistercian monks, it was the richest abbey in Wales
by the 14th century, but along with other monasteries it was dissolved
in 1536 by Henry VIII. Set in the steep and heavily wooded Wye
Valley, it has been an enchanting ruin since at least the early 18th
century, when it inspired William Wordsworth to write these Lines
Composed A Few Miles Above Tintern Abbey:
--Once again
Do I behold these steep and lofty cliffs,
That on a wild secluded scene impress
Thoughts of more deep seclusion;
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Trafalgar Square |
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Trafalgar Square, a large,
inviting open space in the heart of London, is located northeast of
Buckingham Palace at the intersection of several major streets.
It was unseasonably warm when we were there in July 2003 (temperatures
approached the mid-80's), and many people were wading in the fountain
to cool off. Shortly after we left, England set an all-time
temperature record with a reading of 100°.
In the background is the main entrance to the National Gallery,
London's pre-eminent art museum.
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Welsh Countryside |
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We spent much of one very
pleasant day driving through the moors, green hills, and high
deserted plateaus of the Welsh Cambrian Mountains. Except for
numerous sheep, the area is sparsely populated. The narrow road
in the picture included wider turn-off spots every few hundred yards
to allow oncoming vehicles to pass (we're temporarily parked in one in
the photograph above); other roads we drove on were much
smaller, consisting of old sheep drover's paths that had recently
received a tarmac surface. Our average speed in six hours of
driving was scarcely more than fifteen miles per hour.
Remarkably unAmerican, and delightfully so.
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