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France
1999 |

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Below are photographs and brief descriptions of some of the places we
visited during our visit to Paris in July 1999. We spent one
night at the Hotel Ritz on the Place Vendome, and stayed the rest of the
time in the charming Left Bank apartment of our friend Anne-Laure in the 5th
arrondisement. To my mind, Paris is inarguably the most
beautiful city in the world.
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L'Arc de Triomphe et l'Avenue des
Champs-Élysées |

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The 164-foot tall Arc de Triomphe sits on the Place Charles-de-Gaulle, known to Parisians as
L'Étoile
(the star) for the 12 streets radiating out from this formidable
traffic circle. The arch was planned by Napoléon to
commemorate his military victories, but it wasn't completed until
1836. The tomb of France's unknown soldier lies in the ground
beneath the central arch. An underground passageway allows
pedestrians access to the monument from the northern side of the
Champs-Élysées, one of the most
famous and most beautiful avenues in the world; looking eastward from
the top of the arch, the view down the Champs-Élysées
extends to the Place de la Concorde, with the Tuileries Gardens and
the Louvre beyond that. The lone skyscraper visible to the
southeast is the Tour Montparnasse, the tallest building in Europe.
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La Seine et l'Ile de la Cité |

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The Pont Neuf, or "New
Bridge" (which is actually the oldest bridge in Paris) is visible in
the background of the photograph on the left (the view is to the east,
looking upriver). The Pont Neuf connects the western tip of the
Ile de la Cité with the right and left banks of Paris on either side
of the Seine; completed in 1607, it was the first bridge in the city
to be built without houses lining either side.
The photograph on the right was taken at the foot of one of several
small bridges that connect the left bank to the Ile de la Cité (the
view is to the north, with the southern boundary of the Ile de la Cité
in the background). A short walk across the bridge leads to the
Notre Dame Cathedral, which is visible in the upper right portion of
the photograph; the square in front of the Cathedral, known as
kilomètre zéro, is the spot
from which all distances to and from the city of Paris are officially
measured.
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Le Louvre et le Musée
d'Orsay |

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The Louvre, the world's
largest museum, is the product of many centuries of work.
Originally built by Philippe-August in the 13th century as a fortress,
it served at various times as a royal residence--although most French
kings preferred to live elsewhere (in 1682, for example, Louis XIV
moved the court to Versailles, southwest of Paris). The Louvre
was made into a museum by Napoléon, which didn't prevent three 19th
century
French monarchs from subsequently making the palace their home (they
included Louis XVIII [1814-1824], who was the only French monarch to
die in the Louvre). The glass pyramid in the largest courtyard
was unveiled in 1989--it provides the major entrance to the museum,
and allows natural light to penetrate to the cavernous museum shop
located underneath.
The Musée d'Orsay, which opened in 1986, is devoted to art (primarily
French art) from the period 1848-1914, and thus includes a large
Impressionist collection (Renoir, Sisley, Pisarro, and Monet are all
well represented) as well as a large Post-Impressionist collection
(works by Cézanne, van Gogh, Gaugin, and Toulouse-Lautrec can be found
on the upper of the three floors). From 1900 to the 1960's, the
building was used as a train station; today it's one of the most
popular museums in Paris, and long lines typically form early in the
day (especially during the summer tourist season). The huge
bronze statues (which include a rhinoceros and an elephant) stand
outside the museum's front entrance.
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L'Hôtel
des Invalides et le Jardin du Luxembourg |

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The most impressive dome in
Paris towers over the church at Les Invalides, designed in the late
17th century at the behest of Louis XIV to house wounded soldiers.
Today Les Invalides includes the Musée de l'Armée, one of the world's
foremost military museums with an especially impressive collection of
arms and armor from many centuries, and the tomb of Napoléon, which
lies in a series of nested coffins beneath the dome.
The elegant Luxembourg Garden is one of the
prettiest of Paris's large parks, and features fountains, ponds,
carefully trimmed hedges, precisely planted rows of trees, and gravel
walks. The garden provides the grounds for the 17th century
Palais du Luxembourg, which is where the French Senate meets today
(thus the building is not open to the public).
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Le Château
de Versailles et le Parc de Versailles |

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The Chateau de Versailles,
built by Louis XIV in the 17th century, is the world's grandest
palace; it's located a few miles west of Paris, where Louis XIV's
father maintained a relatively small hunting lodge. Among the
rooms open to the public is the famous Galerie des Glaces, or
Hall of Mirrors, where the controversial Treaty of Versailles,
asserting Germany's responsibility for World War I, was signed in
1919. The 250-acre Parc de Versailles includes numerous
fountains; when they're turned on (generally on Sundays in the
summertime), they make a fabulous spectacle.
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Le Cimetière
du Père Lachaise et les Catacombes |

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The photograph on the left
was taken in the Père Lachaise cemetery,
the largest and most prestigious of Paris's cemeteries. Dating
from the early 19th century, and located in eastern Paris, it's a
necropolis with cobbled avenues, steep slopes, and lush vegetation;
the tombs compete with one another for grandiosity and originality.
The graves of many famous people can be found here, including those of
Chopin, Molière, Honoré de Balzac, Marcel Proust, Oscar Wilde,
and Edith Piaf, as well as Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas, who are
buried in the same grave.
The photograph on the right was taken in the Catacombs, which were
originally built by the Romans to quarry stone and which tunnel under
much of the Left Bank. The public entrance to the catacombs is
located located in the Place Denfert-Rochereau, named after
French General Denfert-Rochereau who achieved fame during the Prussian
invasion of 1870. Prior to being named after the general,
however, the square was called Place d'Enfer or Hell Square,
and the name still works today as a pun in French (the pronunciations
of Denfert and d'Enfer are virtually identical).
The catacombs are used to
store millions of skeletons
that have been disinterred
from various Parisian
graveyards; when the
cemeteries fill up, the
bones are removed to make
room for new graves, and the
unmarked skeletons are
deposited in the Catacombs
(they're often arranged in
neat patterns, with various
types of bones--femora and
skulls, for instance--grouped together).
For someone with an interest in forensic anthropology, the Catacombs
are especially intriguing. There are guards at the exit who will
inspect your bags to make sure that you don't try to remove any
skeletal material, but as you stroll through the lengthy underground
passageways you are allowed to approach the bones within touching
distance, and the details of each person's sex, age, and ancestry can
easily be read in their skulls. It's remarkable to contemplate
that each of those skulls had a richly detailed biography; each one
experienced its share of love and longing as well as its share of
triumph and disappointment, and each one contained its own dreams and
ambitions--but today each one is part of a silent, anonymous army,
patiently waiting for us to join them.
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